Returning to Italy with Franca feels like coming home, and not just as we arrive back into Alberobello for Christmas, but every time we cross the border there’s an immediate casualness to life that permeates the air and says, “bentornato“.
As we made our way south to Puglia for the winter – following from our four months in Berlin – we spent a little time revisiting Verona and Bologna in the north so that we could reconnect with a lovely Couchsurfing family and friend in the former, and to explore more of rumoured growing vegan scene in the latter, which is so internationally famous for being the home of prosciutto and ragu.
From the moment we stopped in our first service station in Italy following our Blablacar journey through Germany and Austria, I could already see those familiar characteristics that Italian people have that relax me so much. Their familiarity and manner of conversing with the bar staff as they grind, temper, and pour their first espresso shot of the day is quite special to observe. That particular lean against the bar, picking at the crumbs of what was once a soft and freshly baked croissant. They gesticulate and smile, much as they would with a family member or friend, yet with a complete stranger. The way they interact relaxes you and says, “you’re one of us” – and that’s just how I feel.
Slow Travel, Slow Trains, Slow Life
Train stations in particular work for a perfect case-in-point of how slow paced, yet workable, life in Italy is; so pulling into Verona Porta Nuova Station to disembark from our car share proved as a great example of that tranquillity. People meander between cars in motion, looking neither left nor right, pulling their suitcases behind them without much care to how close it comes to being run over by another passing car. It’s beautiful for me, yet frustrating for Franca. Where I see zen-like and relaxed attitudes, Franca sees people lost in their own little world, and at times it’s hard to deny how right she is; but when I’m inside of my own little bubble of perfect ambience too and walking between them all, it’s difficult not to get pulled in with them.
Meeting with our former Couchsurfing host in the car park, it’s much like meeting a long-lost friend who you want to know everything about. Every little detail about life, love, and plans for the future. To me, it feels distinctly Italian in nature. We’ve reconnected and re-stayed with Couchsurfing hosts two or three times in the past, and whilst we love those individuals and everything about them; this familiarity isn’t always matched, no matter how much we equally love our time spent together.
Stepping into the familiar surroundings of the family home, the welcome from Susy’s family is beyond heart-warming, and into motion goes an Italian welcoming tradition that finally tells me I’m back, I’m home again.
Break Bread With Me
We’ve been welcomed into many homes over the past two years we’ve been travelling thanks to the wonders of Couchsurfing, and for each country we’ve been to we’ve received in different ways; but the three that have always been the most memorable are those of Italy, France, and Spain.
Shown to a seat at the family table, offers of refreshment are immediate and relentless. Not aggressively – far from it – rather, you’re offered the chance to make a choice between something or nothing, but judging from the brightness of your hosts smile, it’d be a grave mistake should you choose to decline. Making the wrong choice in these first few moments can be a personal slight to your host, and if you’re intending to spend several days in their company, it’s best not to put a divide between you from the start. Thankfully, neither of us have made that mistake and have always taken the offers on first request – if not the second – mostly because we’re always so curious to try what’s on offer.
The difference in spreads in France, Spain, and Italy aren’t broad and often tend to be a similar selection of olives, fresh bread and cheese that will most likely appear from nowhere and spread themselves upon the table; however, of the three, Italy has for many reasons remained my favourite due to both the French and Spanish tending to bring more meat and sausages to the table than our diet welcomes.
Sipping on our first coffee of the day, we all talk in a mixture of Italian and scattered English about what has occurred in the year since our last meeting. The coffee is bitter sweet, dark and striking, and loved with every drop. We help ourselves to fruit and chunks of dark fondente chocolate (Side note for vegans: most fondente chocolate in Italy is vegan), though bread and other typical nibbles such as biscuits – and probably olives – are readily at hand.
Between the stories shared I can’t help but daydream for a moment of a time when we’ll be able to host others in return, to repay the favour and provide hospitality to so many of the new friends we’ve made whilst living our life of slow travel. Welcoming past Couchsurfing hosts especially, making them feel as at home as I felt right there in that moment at the table.
It’s Not Just This Moment
During all of my confessed love for this typical welcome in Italy, I can’t help but feel that perhaps it’s related more to our choice to Couchsurf rather than it being a regular custom of Italian life, but even within that same day we again experience a warm welcome, an acceptance, and nourishment too.
Exploring Verona for the second time, we made our way towards the centre, opting to stick to our usual choice of walking so as to increase the chances of an accidental find of something off-the-path. For every walk that we usually take, perhaps nine times out of ten we’ll discover some nice scenes that deserve a photograph or four, but for that other one time we’ll find something special that’s worth remembering and recommending to you. This was one such occasion. We stumbled upon a small pizzeria that prides itself on being the highest rated vegan pizza takeaway on TripAdvisor for Verona and in order to know more about the local vegan scene, we entered to ask a few questions.
To our luck, both of the two owners were on hand to answer all of our questions about veganism in Verona and they were visibly proud to tell us of how their local clientèle is becoming more open to trying new variations on old classics like foccacia, pizza, and cakes; and when it came for us to depart and continue on our way they were kind enough to give us a couple of their vegan treats to take with us. It was that same friendliness and level of hospitality that we’d experienced earlier. They wanted to share things that made them happy with us, and as we both enjoyed our rich chocolate sweets we felt that same happiness too – and it’s not an isolated incident either, as we found in Bologna a few days later where we were again offered sweet treats to take with us after making enquiries again, this time in a vegan bakery called Canape.
The Heel Of The Boot
If I had to choose one place that I’ve felt most at home in Italy, it’s Puglia, the regularly described “Heel of the boot” and Franca’s home region.
When I pause to ponder for a second between the treats that are offered to me at almost every table I’m asked to sit at, I can’t help but wonder if it’s my being in a relationship with Franca that brings out such hospitality from our hosts.
“Am I getting preferential treatment?“, I ask myself. And the truth is that it’s just how things are here in Italy, though it seems especially so the further south you go. People may look at you from the side of their eyes and at a distance, but up close they’re a friend-of-a-friend whose friendship just needs a little kindling to really roar into life.
Partly, it’s about tradition too which Puglia seems to have in abundance, and the more time I spend in the region watching how people interact with each other in the piazza‘s, talking with friends of twenty and thirty years, strolling and laughing together, or sitting beneath the trees that surround a small fountain in the middle of the square; the more I learn how these friendships and family ties are built on these traditions of togetherness, welcoming, and hospitality.
Share A Special Moment
Coming back to Alberobello for Christmas and enjoying these special moments of sharing stories and the latest news over sweet treats and fresh fruit has been something I’ve been looking forward to ever since we decided to make the trip, and in the past week alone I’ve enjoyed each and every occasion where it’s happened – especially when we visited Franca’s great grandmother in a nearby town, where freshly baked goods are thrust into my hands like I’ve never seen food before. I’m loving every second.
I urge you to visit Italy and experience it for yourself. I’m sure no matter which region you travel to you’ll find the same warm smile, open arms, and a seat at the table; but for that something extra special and for the image of a more rustic Italy that you just won’t find in the larger cities – travel to Puglia and feel at home.
Have you been welcomed into an Italian home?
Merry Christmas and happy new year! I’m glad you have been enjoying your time in Italy. It all sounds so relaxing and peaceful! I’m definitely with you on the slow travel. I recently spent six hours trying to explore Helsinki for the first time and it was very stressful. We are planning to visit Italy in 2015 and have decided that rather than trying to see as much of the country as we can in a week, we’re going to just do one small part and go back to see the rest when we can. First up: Naples and the Amalfi Coast 🙂
Heather recently posted…Top Ferreting Experiences of 2014
That’s a great idea! There’s so much of Napoli that I love that I’m sure I’d be more than happy to join with you during your week there, especially with Amalfi Coast attached too.
Slow Travel has become the biggest reason we’ve enjoyed our travels so much these past couple of years, and the slower we go the more we enjoy what we do and where we are.
I hope that you’ll be able to return to Helsinki in 2015 and give it all the time that it needs 😀
Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia
I spent last Christmas at my friend’s house in Tuscany and have never felt more welcome by a group of people I’ve never met. Just another reason why Italy is my favorite country.
I’m glad you guys had such a welcome homecoming and from your other post, a delicious vegan Italian Christmas feast.
Amanda recently posted…My Resolutions for 2015 (And a 2014 Resolution Recap)
I’d to spend some more time in Tuscany in 2015. We’ve been there briefly together, but could really do with spending some more time immersing ourselves in the differences in culture between here in Puglia, and there.
Here’s hoping you’ve had a great Christmas and New Year 😀
Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia
This is beautifully written, I almost felt like I was there in those Italian homes with you. You evoked such powerful memories for me with this post, the hospitality of Italians is something I have found no match for. For personal reasons I have not returned to Italy for a while, but this has made me consider heading back there again soon. Great to hear you’re enjoying yourselves in Italy over the Christmas period, hope you continue to have a wonderful trip.
Thanks a lot Fabio. I was hoping that others would be able to share their own experiences of fantastic Italian hospitality and the feeling of being at home at many a kitchen table, and you’ve done just that.
I really hope that you’re able to return in 2015 😀
Dale recently posted…How Travel Made Me More Minimal
I have never been to Italy, nor has my mom. She is 50% Italian, and I am a 25%, so it is a dream to soon take her there and soak in some of our heritage. This post definitely inspired me to do this soon.
Traveling Ted recently posted…Best outdoor adventure travel moments of 2014
To do that in 2015 would be a fantastic resolution for you both (if you make them, that is).
Do you know what region her family is from?
Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia
It sounds great!!
I did love Italy the times I’ve been there too…but have never been to somebodies home!!
Should really consider doing couchsurfing!!
Great blog!!
Jacomijn Heupink recently posted…The 3rd day of my Wildlife Adventure – South Africa
I couldn’t recommend Couchsurfing to you any higher. I absolutely love it.
Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia
This sounds like an amazing homecoming. This post is just overflowing with generosity and hospitality and warmth and it’s making me want to visit Italy RIGHT now! I would love people shoving food into my hands…I will definitely remember not to say “no” so I don’t offend my hosts!
Leah of The Mochilera Diaries recently posted…Paying it forward this Christmas and how you can, too (Giveaway)
Haha. I have trouble saying ‘No’ in general. I always want to try something, plus the old (and fatter) me still likes his food!
Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia
I’m also back home for Christmas, so I can imagine your excitement! You took such beautiful pictures! Wishing you Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! XxX
Agness recently posted…California For Less Than $25 A Day
And I was just looking at your post too!
Looks like you’ve had a great Christmas, I hope the New Year is as fantastic 🙂
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
It sounds like an amazing homecoming and I just love the last picture in this post. It makes me wonder what they are talking about and the stories they are sharing with each other.
Merry Christmas and happy holidays!! I hope you have an amazing 2015 with lots of beautiful travel stories to tell! 🙂
Constance – Foreign Sanctuary recently posted…Once Guava Tree, Then Decorative Piece, Now Christmas Tree: The Tree that Keeps on Giving
Sometimes I’m left wondering what they’re talking about too! It’s not often that they’re talking in Italian, instead they talk in a dialect that’s local to that town and that town only, making it hard to follow along with where the conversation is going – but I manage sometimes 🙂
Happy holidays to you too! Here’s hoping we’ll be able to share some travel stories together in 2015 🙂
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
Sounds like you’re getting a very warm welcome in Italy. So glad for you – just perfect for the holiday season! Been to just the cities in Italy but would love to visit the Puglia region someday; seems special. Happy holidays to you guys and best wishes for a great new year! 🙂
Nita recently posted…2014 Highlights via Instagram
Best wishes to you too, and hopefully a trip to Puglia will be on the cards for you in 2015 as well 😉
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
Sounds magical and like you’re right where you should be for the holidays! It’s great to feel connected and have another home away from home!
Mary @ Green Global Travel recently posted…HONDURAS: Macaw Mountain, the Park Of Living Jewels
Here’s hoping that your holidays are well spent too 🙂
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
I spent a grand total of five days in Italy, so I don’t have much to go off of. But from your description it sounds pretty amazing. My aunt and uncle fell so head-over-heels in love with Italy that they decided to move there from the U.S. five years ago. Every time I talk to them and hear stories of their incredible experiences with the people there, I come so close to just buying a plane ticket and going to visit them indefinitely. It sounds like there’s a good reason people fall for Italy so hard 🙂 Glad you two are enjoying yourselves so much!
Justine recently posted…My Epic Quest For the Best Veggie Burger in Jakarta
Please, if you can afford it, buy yourself the Christmas present of a flight to Italy in 2015, and if you can, spend as much time here as you can.
My observations have all come from prolonged exposure – though you’ll see much of what I wrote about in just a weeks long immersion in the culture here – but if you can spend a month or longer in Italy, it opens up a whole new world of things to notice and experience that (sometimes) I can’t truly describe.
Dale recently posted…Farewell To Berlin – Reflection On Four Months As A ‘Local’
Now you have made me feel nostalgic. My first boyfriend and first kiss was with an Italian boy at a girl guide and scout camp. I now wonder what became of him. Never saw him after that but he always used to send musical cards for my birthday and Christmas. I was about 13. So young and innocent! 😉
Natalie recently posted…Getting from Ataturk Airport to Istanbul City Centre or your Hotel
Haha. Maybe it’s time to reconnect and start sending some new cards? Just to settle that curiosity 🙂
Dale recently posted…Five Pics and Tips for Antwerp
I can’t get over how cool that shirt is. Was it meant to be a play on Magritte’s work? Even if not, it’s still cool.
In other news, so lovely that you have a place where you really feel at home, especially in time for Christmas. Christmas really is when I miss home and family the most, and one of the only times of year when I really struggle with it (not that I’m at all unhappy to be house sitting in Panama this xmas, either!)
Charlie recently posted…How Much Does It Cost to Travel Bocas del Toro, Panama on a Budget? [Infographic]
Yeah, it’s completely about Magritte! In fact, we wrote about Kai3 and his whole idea last year 🙂
Whilst I’m sure you’re loving the sunshine and new friends you have in Panama, maybe next year you can return home to spend Christmas with your family? Then simply alternate between Christmases at home and abroad each year after that. That’s our plan 😉
Dale recently posted…How Travel Made Me More Minimal
What a wonderful homecoming! I’m going to take your advice and try to go to Italy within the next two years. I can’t wait to see and experience it all for myself especially with having so many Italian friends in Costa Rica. That vegan pizza looks awesome!
Samantha recently posted…Travel the Whole Island of Taiwan by Train
Talking of travelling somewhere in the next two years, I think a visit to Costa Rica would be fantastic.
Do you have an idea of where you’d like to travel to in particular in Italy?
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
Sounds like a wonderful homecoming just in time for the holiday season. Best wishes you two!
Emily recently posted…10 Favourite Places We Visited in 2014
Best wishes to you too! 🙂
Dale recently posted…Italy, and The Feeling Of Coming Home
This all sounds excellent, I am very happy for you. I totally agree with Sam, I also like your t-shirt a lot 🙂
Dorothée Lefering recently posted…The Canaletto Market. A Christmas Market in Saxony
I love it too 😀 I hope you have a wonderful Christmas Dorothee!
Dale recently posted…Five Pics and Tips for Antwerp
Staying with old Couchsurfing friends is the best! Are you perhaps considering somewhere in Italy (Puglia?) as a base? I like your panda t-shirt by the way. Nice to see you have more than one 😉
Sam recently posted…700 Days of Travel and Another Announcement
I HAVE SO MANY T-SHIRTS HERE, IT’S AMAZING!
Inside jokes aside, Puglia isn’t really on the list as a permanent base as there are a few things missing here that we’d really miss in the long-run, like accessible concerts from our favourite bands, etc.
Dale recently posted…Five Pics and Tips for Bologna